(August 2007, Nairobi, Kenya)
Wake-up call at 5AM from our group monitor, Natalee. Our bodies still getting used to the ten-hour time zone change, having left LA just three days ago. So this is not easy.
Decisions to be made. What to leave behind at the Karen Blixen Cottages in Nairobi, and what to include in our weight limit of one checked bag to Samburu, limit of fifteen kilos = 33 pounds). What to take in our carry-ons. We scramble half-awake to get it all organized.
Breakfast at 5:45. Load up into the vans at 6:30, departs for Wilson airport, for an 8AM flight to Samburu Park. Some light traffic on the way to Wilson..arrive there about 7AM.
Wilson is a local airport, appears to be for in-country flights only. Young soldiers with automatic weapons. Reminds me of Athens in 1989, or Israel anytime, or NYC after 9/11.
There are sixteen persons in our party. We check inland turn over our luggage at the counter. Despite all the warnings about the fifteen kilo limit, I see no evidence that our bags are being weighed.
The primary aircraft headed to Samburu only holds thirteen persons. We have to split our group. Nadine volunteers for she and I to be in the second plane. Leslie volunteers to be the third person needed. We proceed to the tarmac, more soldiers there.
The primary plane is a twin prop. Ours is a single-engine Otter. Leslie informs us the Otter is very reliable...she has traveled a lot, and flown in Otters on several occasions.
We board the Otter. Seating is one and two seat per row, not more than six rows. Nadine agrees to go to the front row, behind the co-pilot seat. I sit next to her.
Our pilot boards, and introduces himself: "Fakim". Soft voice, Pakistani accent?, rimless glasses. In another place I might have guessed that Fakim is an associate professor at a university. Fakim is business-like, but pleasant. Our flying time to Samburu will be about one hour, and will pass by Mount Kenya. He passes back a plate of mints.
I ask Fakim if I can sit in the co-pilots seat. He says yes. I scramble over and sit down. Fakim has to help me with the seat belt.
The weather is Nairobi is cloudy and overcast. Fakim checks all his controls and starts to taxi out to the runway. There are two other small planes ahead of us for take-off.
Soon, it is our turn. Fakim turns to the right and down to the end of the runway. Then left, and the runway stretches out in front of us. One last check of controls. Words whispered into his headset. Throttle out, and the Otter accelerates. Tail up. and soon we are airborne and climbing to the east.
As we climb, Fakim circles to the right for 270 degrees. We are passing over Nairobi, then heading north.
After about 5 minutes, we break thru out of the clouds. On top of the clouds, sparkling and billowing, the warm morning sun.
Ten or fifteen minutes later, Mount Kenya comes into view. A classic volcanic mountain, reminds me of Mauna Loa. A few clouds clinging on the east side of the mountain, otherwise it is clear.
The clouds below begin to break up. We can see the countryside below. A few large plantations; each appears to have its own long green airstrip. Many smaller farms, all very green.
After about 45 minutes, we pass beyond the western flank of the mountain, and begin our descent. Now the terrain is much dryer, with virtually no signs of human activity. Rather quickly, Buffalo Springs runway comes into view. Fakim descends quickly and levels out. One big bounce and we are down on the gravel runway. The Otter slows quickly. Fakim turns us around, and taxis directly back to the end of the gravel. We have arrived at Samburu.
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The primary plane is now arriving. The are about eight vehicles waiting for us, and other parties. Some locals have their stands set up with wares for sale.
Our luggage had made it. Our crew loads up the luggage, and we jump into our four Land Cruisers, which will be with us for the next ten days. Our driver is George. We are going directly to a game drive this morning, before going to our campsite in Samburu Park. It's now 9:30AM.
Our first game drive. Over the next three hours, we see many antelope, giraffes, elephants, baboons, monkeys, many birds....and one leopard. She is lying in the shade of a tall bush, only half exposed to view.
12:30. We arrive at the our first campsite, on the north side of the Samburu river. Later that day, a late afternoon game drive along the river. Babboons, two crocodiles, a pair of giraffes courting in a graceful ritual of rubbing necks together. Buzzards flocking overhead..for what?
